Fairytale World in Jiuzhaigou

 **Preface: Why Jiuzhaigou? **  

As a year-round outdoor photographer contributing to National Geographic, I've delved into Alaskan glaciers and hiked Norwegian fjords, but I'd never seen such a surreal landscape-until a coworker pointed to a photo of blue-green gradient waters on the screen and said, “This is Jiuzhaigou, China, the most fairytale-like place on Earth.”  

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Three weeks later, I landed at Chengdu Shuangliu Airport with my camera and tripod. The goal of the trip was clear: to capture Jiuzhaigou's autumnal splendor on camera, and to verify a legend — is it true that the water here needs no filter?


#### **Day 1: Encountering the Sapphire Corridor  

At 7am, I followed Tom, my English-speaking guide, who had made a reservation in advance, into the scenic spot. He handed me a hand-drawn map with “photographer's secret spot” marked with an asterisk. As I ride through the Sea of Reeds, the mother-of-pearl sheen of the water in the morning mist reminds me of a maple leaf reflection in Maine – except that the intensity of color is at least five times greater here.


**Highlights of the experience:**  

– **Shuzheng Lakes**: 22 terraced lakes look like spilled paint trays; Tom explains the color comes from a symbiosis of calcified sediments and algae, similar to Yellowstone's Grand Prismatic Spring but on a denser scale.  

– **Tibetan Lunch**: Enjoy a modified version of Tibetan food at Zechawa Walled City, a yak burger paired with a ghee tea latte, the perfect solution to the clash of eastern and western appetites.  

– **Photography Tip**: After 3:00pm, you can capture the “double rainbow” at the Rhino Sea – an optical miracle created by the refraction of the sunlight and the minerals under the water.


**Day 2


#### **Day 2: The ultimate hiker's reward**  

Changing into my Salomon hiking shoes, I opted for the primary forest trail of intermediate difficulty. The altitude of 3,000 meters made breathing heavy, but the sight in front of me was worth every oxygen molecule:  


**▌ Arrow Bamboo Lake

The setting for Zhang Yimou's Hero, the bamboo shadows crisscross the water like Monet's water lily pond. Several American tourists at the observation deck discuss, “This is three shades bluer than Crater Lake!”  


**▌ Multicolored Lake

When I used polarized lenses to remove reflections from the water, I suddenly understood why the locals call it the “Goddess's Palette” – peacock blue, emerald green, and amber yellow intertwined in the center of the lake, even showing rare patches of violet, which Tom revealed to be the result of calcified tree trunks that were 40 meters underwater.  


**▌ Long Lake  

This 3,100-meter alpine lake reminds me of a glacial lake in Alaska, except that the shore is covered with Tibetan prayer flags. A lama taught me the proper gesture for turning the meridian: “Clockwise, pray for your family in New York.”

#### **Day 3: Hidden ways to avoid tourists**  

**1) The Morning Mist Exclusive Program**  

With the new “VIP Early Access” service ($150/person), I entered the Sea of Mirrors an hour before the park opened. When the first ray of sunlight pierces through the clouds, the snow-covered mountains reflected in the water take on the texture of the Elven Kingdom in The Lord of the Rings.  


**②Tibetan Cultural Immersion Class**  

Attend an English interpretation workshop at Zaru Monastery and draw the base of a thangka by hand. Monks demonstrate how to mix “Jiuzhaigou Blue” with mineral pigments: lapis lazuli powder + turquoise powder + trace gold solution.  


**③ Ecological Conservation Practices  

As a volunteer of NPS (National Park System), I paid special attention to the environmental protection measures here. I was pleasantly surprised to find that every restroom is equipped with a biodegradable processor, and that eco-friendly vehicles use hydrogen fuel cells — more ahead of the curve than the electric bus system in Yosemite.

#### **Practical Guide for the American Traveler**  

**✓ Seasonal options**  

– Best time to visit: mid to late October (peak fall colors)  

– Alternative: April peach season (30% fewer visitors)  


**✓ Countermeasures for high altitude reaction  

– Take Diamox three days in advance (prescription required)  

– Scenic medical stations provide free oxygen tanks, much more conscientious than Yellowstone's $25/bottle  


**✓ Accommodation Recommendations  

– **Luxuryist**: Ritz-Carlton Hideaway Collection (new in 2023, pool overlooking snow-capped mountains)  

– **Adventurer**: Tibetan B&B experience (we recommend “Norilang House”, payable with Venmo)  


**Photography Gear Checklist  

– Must bring: polarizer, telephoto lens (70-200mm), lightweight tripod.  

– No-fly zone: drones need to apply for a license 30 days in advance  

#### **Afterword: Redefining “Wonderland”  

While looking through GoPro footage on the return flight, the older Texan guy in the next seat stared at the screen and asked, “Is that CG effects?” I smiled and shook my head. What struck me most about Jiuzhaigou was not the visual spectacle, but the wisdom of the Chinese in protecting nature – isolating ecologically sensitive areas with wooden walkways and limiting the flow to 50,000 people per day (compared to the Grand Canyon's 30,000 daily visitors). This may explain why the lake here is clearer than it was twenty years ago.  

If you, too, are tired of the same old national park trips, book a ticket to Chengdu. Remember to bring a wide-angle lens and an open mind; this blue-green universe deep in the Hengduan Mountains will reshape your definition of “paradise on earth”.

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