‘OMG! Isn’t this really a scene from Frozen?’ This was the exclamation that came out of my mouth the first time I set foot in Jiuzhaigou in December. While my American friends were still debating whether or not to wear Canada Goose to Yellowstone, I had already discovered this secret winter destination wrapped in sapphire lakes and misty forests deep in the mountains of Sichuan. Ready to unlock this real-life version of The Chronicles of Narnia with me?
I. Jiuzhaigou’s December Weather Mystery: A Warm Adventure in a Down Coat
1. Ice magic on the thermometer
Jiuzhaigou in December is like an enchanted crystal ball, with daytime highs ranging from 5°C to 8°C (imagine what it’s like in the mountains of Aspen, Colorado), but as soon as the sun goes down, the thermometer dips like a rollercoaster ride to -5°C to -10°C. I remember last Christmas Eve, my thermos froze half an hour before Norridge Falls – definitely the ultimate exam room to test your down jacket’s warmth!
2. Every day is a weather blind box
The weather here is even more exciting than the popular TikTok challenge: a clear blue sky in the morning, cotton candy clouds at noon, a handful of diamond snow in the afternoon, and then a pinkish-purple sunset in the evening. We recommend downloading the ‘Inkblot Weather’ app, but even if the forecast is sunny, don’t forget to tuck a folding umbrella into your backpack – the weather in the mountains can change at any time, just like in Sichuan opera.
3. The secret weapon of daylight hours
Don’t let the ‘short winter days’ scare you! In fact, there are nearly 7 hours of golden light every day in December (much better than the polar night in Alaska), perfect for photographing sunrise over the Sea of Mirrors and sunset over the Long Sea. Remember to put your phone on pro mode for 9:00-11:00 and 14:00-16:00, when the sunlight does a ballet over the frozen lake.
Two must-have winter survival kits for American tourists
1. A hands-on lesson in the onion style of dressing
- Layer 1: Uniqlo Heattech thermal underwear (warmer than a Starbucks pumpkin latte)
- Layer 2: Down jacket or thin down (Patagonia’s Nano Puff has been tested and proven to work)
- Ultimate protection: waterproof and windproof down jacket (we recommend Columbia’s Omni-Heat reflective liner)
- Secret weapon: baby warmers (stick them on your backside and the back of your mobile phone, don’t ask me how I know)
2. snow boots shopping guide
Give up your Timberland! Three layers of non-slip tips recommended by local Tibetans:
- wool socks (thick enough to fit two fingers)
- Ice claw shoe covers (30 yuan can be rented at the entrance of the scenic spot)
- high-top waterproof hiking shoes (focus on checking the depth of the sole grain)
3. Highland Survival Kit
At an altitude of 3000 metres, my Fitbit heart rate monitor almost alarmed. Remember:
- Bring insulated cups for brown sugar and ginger tea (every toilet in the scenic area has a water heater)
- Oxygen tanks are more important than Frappuccinos (buy them in advance at Chengdu pharmacy, half the price)
- Don’t take a hot shower on the first day (don’t ask me how I know you’ll get dizzy).
3. Winter Beauty: A VIP experience for the whole wonderland.
1. Blue Ice Miracle: The Sea of Flowers is transformed into an aurora borealis lake.
While other tourists are crowding the summer viewing platforms, in December you can enjoy a world of frozen wonder:
- Calcified sediments at the bottom of the lake form galactic patterns under the ice.
- A Tiffany blue halo appears when the midday sun penetrates the ice.
- Whisper it: the third bend in the west side of the trail is the best place to take pictures.
2. Waterfall costume show: Norilang’s Ice Crown.
This location for the end credits of Journey to the West transforms into an ice queen in winter:
- Hundreds of icicles form a 30-metre wide waterfall.
- At sunrise, the hanging ice reflects rainbows (remember to wear polarising glasses).
- Safety tip: there may be undercurrents on the ice outside the warning line, don’t run like Elsa!
3. New way to play in the Tibetan village: Ghee tea socialising by the fire pit
I was taught by a Tibetan amah in Shuzheng Zhai:
- Dip barley cakes in yak yoghurt (more addictive than New York cheesecake).
- Learning three Tibetan phrases: ‘zazhidler’ (hello), ‘tuyi’ (thank you), and ‘yabu’ (wonderful).
- Listening to the Legend of King Gesar around the fireplace (better than a Netflix series)
4. 10 Q&A’s that American tourists care about the most
- Will the mountains be closed?
The scenic area is open all year round! However, the higher elevation Changhai may be temporarily closed, so it is recommended to enter the park before 8am. - Do I have to get a special permit?
Chinese citizens bring their ID cards, foreign friends remember to bring their passports + book online in advance. - Is it feasible to drive by myself?
Chengdu car rental should be equipped with anti-skid chains, recommended to take the scenic area through the car (a pig APP can be booked). - How to choose accommodation?
Jiuzhai Paradise Intercontinental has underfloor heating + constant temperature swimming pool, youth hostel recommended ‘Jiuqi’ of the fire night conversation. - Is there a mobile phone signal?
Mobile 4G covers the main attractions, but the Panda Sea to the Swan Sea is a ‘digital detoxification zone’. - Do I need a guide? Download ‘SANMAO TOURS’ for more information.
Download the ‘SANMAO TOUR’ APP to unlock the GPS positioning explanation, which is more free than the artificial guide. - Cash or Alipay? Cash or Alipay?
90% of merchants support WeChat payment, but keep some cash for roadside baked potatoes. - Will I have plateau reaction?
We recommend drinking Rhodiola Rosea three days in advance, and the scenic infirmary is on call 24 hours a day. - Can I fly a drone?
You need to apply in advance on the website of ‘Civil Aviation Administration of China’, and the height limit is 120 metres. - What is the best time for photography? It’s the best time to take photos of the Mirror Sea.
1 hour after sunrise to shoot the reflection of the Mirror Sea, 2 hours before sunset to squat on Pearl Beach.
V. Private routes to avoid the crowds
Day1: VIP package mode
07:30 Mirror Sea sunrise → 09:00 Jiezhu Sea fog → 11:30 Norilang Centre to eat buffet → 14:00 Changhai Blue Ice → 16:30 Shuzheng Zhai afternoon tea
Day2: In-depth experience version
09:00 Primitive forest snow trail hiking→12:00 Tibetan family visit to learn how to make tsampa→15:00 Observation of ice diving in Panko Sea (professional guide required)→19:00 Participate in Tibetan and Qiang song and dance party
When I heard the sound of snow falling in the ice-crystal forest of Pearl Beach, I suddenly understood why the locals called this place ‘Fairytale World’. Jiuzhaigou in December is more like a magic wardrobe than a summer crowd – push open the icy door to Narnia and there’s a snowy wonderland around every corner. The only question now is: are you ready to share this guide with your girlfriends and start grabbing special flights?
Pro Tips:
- Hotel prices will soar by 30% around Christmas, so booking at the end of November is recommended!
- There are direct flights from Chengdu to Jiuzhai Huanglong Airport on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.
- Bring a waterproof mobile phone case to save your life when taking pictures of the waterfalls.
- Smoking is not permitted in the area but there are designated smoking areas.
- The last bus 17:00 departure, miss to walk 10 kilometres downhill oh!
